Gaien Udon

March 5, 2005 (and several other times)

Shop #22 on the Official Yoshida Udon Map

Jason and Paul call it "Grandma's Udon".


Fujiyoshida's Official Gaien Udon Page


Keiko, Andy and Jason going inside



"Healthy Udon"



I just like pictures of myself


Reviews & Opinions

Peter:



Nice, quaint shop on the hillside. The udon was fine; nice and hot in contrast to the cold room. It wasn't busy, which was nice. My niku udon was generally tasty, but not outstanding. The karashi was composed of a different base than is normal, and wasn't at all spicy, which definitely detracted from the experience. On my second visit, the udon noodles were more much firm, which dramatically improved the quality of the lunch.

Udon Chewiness: 6
Overall: 6

Jason:

I must admit that because it's actually my grandma's udon-ya (I was adopted), I'm offering a biased opinion. Still, if you're looking for the Yoshida Udon experience, there's nowhere I can recommend higher than Gaien, or as I call it, simply Grandma's.
First of all, the building is actually an old Japanese Inn, or ryokan. People looking for accomodations can stay there for a resonable price (I think 5,000 yen a night, including 2 meals). The tatami is a bit faded, as are the wooden beams and sliding paper doors, but that only adds to the feeling of being in an authentic Japanese living space. Other udon-yas convert a room into a restaurant, but at Gaien, you eat in a space that is actually used and loved, and has been for a long time.
The udon itself is top-notch, and there is a wide variety to enjoy. Gaien is possibly the only udon-ya in Fujiyoshida that has its own well on the premises. People say that all Yoshida udon is made with Mt. Fuji water, but Grandma's does not have to collect and store it in big plastic jugs. The well dates back to the construction of the house, in the early 20th century, and the water that comes from it makes for delicious noodles and dashi, which is also flavored with a little miso and konbu.
All dishes at Grandma's are prepared by the cook, Mago-san. The noodles are on the thick side, and they are soft but firm, not gummy or too chewy. Grandma's offers the typical kake, niku, and kakeage (which many other places improperly call tempura) varieties. However, Grandma's offeres a few unique, healthy choices not found anywhere else: healthy udon (both hot and cold) and tuna salad udon. The healthy udon comes with a veggie/seaweed soup, and features special noodles that have nori seaweed and black sesame rolled into them. The tuna salad udon has tuna, salad veggies, and regular udon covered in a light dressing.
You can't really go wrong with any of the items, but my personal favorites are the hiyashi and the hiyashi healthy udon, narrowly edging out the Nikuten. Nikuten is a combination of the niku and the kakeage udon. Still, the true character of the noodles comes out when they are cold. Chilled, the unique firmness and thickness really stands out. Grandma's presents the hiyashi on a woven straw tray, and the oomori(large helping) is a small mountain. It comes without wasabi, but the clean taste of the noodles that comes from the special well water is sufficient by itself, or with some karashi or shichimi chili powder.
Even the karashi and tanuki at Grandma's is special. The karashi is made with ground black sesame, giving it a deep black color. It varies in spiciness from batch to batch. The tanuki are made via a special recipe with nori, making them light green, and providing a different flavor than ordinary tanuki.
Finally, there is Grandma herself. Grandma's hospitality makes Gaien come to life. She knows her usual customers by name, and will gladly come over to share a glass of mugi-cha or a warm cup of tea in the winter. She always brings out a special treat for dessert, and she speaks English very well. Many times I've whiled away entire Saturday afternoons, chatting with Grandma for 2 or 3 hours. An expert in calligraphy, the koto (a Japanese musical instrument) and Noh drama, she's taught me many things about Japanese culture. Her mukashi-banashi stories are always delightful.
Recently I've gone to Gaien a few times when she was out, or not feeling well, and the entire place loses a little shine in her absence. Even still, if you only have time to eat Yoshida Udon once, you can't go wrong at Grandma's.
Score: Udon 8.5 hot, 9.5 cold, averaging out to 9; +72 bonus points for Grandma: 81 out of 10


Paul & Momi:


Noodles: 7/10 Grandma +72 bonus points. I tend to like a firmer udon than Gaien serves, but they also have a couple of specialty offerings that make this place one of my favorites. The first is the Tuna Salad Udon, which is basically a tuna salad with greens on top of a healthy portion of noodles. The second is the niku udon set that comes with tempura topped rice and tsukemono. That set makes my tummy happy. And Grandma's company can't be beat!

(someday I'll write the beginning history of my relationship with grandma)